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Deep in the mountains of Western Sichuan, I'm hacking through a bamboo jungle, trying to find a legendary trail. Just 60 years ago, when much of Asia still moved by foot or hoof, the Tea Horse Road was a thoroughfare of commerce, the main link between China and Tibet. But my search could be in vain. A few days earlier I met a man who used to carry back-breaking loads of tea along the path; he warned me that time, weather and invasive plants may have wiped out the Road. Then, with one sweep of my axe, the bamboo falls. Before me is a four foot wide, cobblestone trail curving up through the forest, slick with green moss, almost overgrown. Some of the stones are pitted with water-filled divots, left by metal-spiked crutches used by hundreds of thousands of porters who trod this trail for a millennium. I am standing on what's left of this famous but now all-but forgotten route - the Tea Horse Road.